FAQ

What is the most important area to insulate?

The attic is by far the most important and primary area to have insulation, it’ll serve to hold rising heat in during the winter and reduce heat from coming down in the summer. While wall insulation will certainly help, the attic is 70% the ball game and is the best area to start when insulating a home.

I’m a landlord, can I still apply for the Gas Company rebate?

YES, the rebate application has a section where you specify to whom and where the check should be sent, you need only have the Gas Company account number for the property.

Do I need a permit to do insulation work?

NO, while the Department of Building & Safety will gladly exchange money for permit on any work in valuation of $500 or more, they do not require a permit for insulation work, it’s considered more of a maintenance then an addition.

Can I, my spouse or our baby be home during the work?

YES, our work is surprisingly clean and our insulation material is non-toxic, non-corrosive and even considered hypoallergenic. We use a dust reduction system and all the machinery is outside the home. Homeowners have even been known to sleep while we complete our work.

Do you have financing or payment plans?

YES, we allow our customers to divide payments over 3 or 4 months at no interest rate or other charges, we’re happy to work with you and can be flexible with your budget.

What does the lifetime guarantee involve?

We place a lifetime guarantee on both the insulation material and the installation, this means the insulation won’t settle, pack or lose it’s insulating qualities. Our installation is guaranteed in that we will have installed the insulation thoroughly and properly.

What does the low-price guarantee involve?

We’re fairly confident you won’t find another insulation company with lower prices, but there’s sometimes an unlicensed low-baller lurking around the corner or a salesman desperate to make his quota. We’d never want you to think you had to pay a premium to work with us, so if you do find a lower price we’ll try to match or even beat it.

Which is better, blown-in or rolled-in insulation?

Each has their application but in the attic the blown-in application has several advantages. The key advantage to a blown-in material is that it’ll cover the entire floor of the attic with a solid blanket of insulation, also called a monolithic fill, this will contour around the entire floor of the attic and seal much better; a blown-in application can work 35-40% more effective then a rolled-in application and this is because a rolled-in application has a compromised fit around plumbing, piping and conduit. Also, the framing in the attic is not all exactly spaced apart, so while the rolled-in application may appear cleaner and easier to work with, a rolled-in R30 will only perform as well as a blown-in R19. Also, the rolled-in material tends to be fiberglass, which is a product we’re trying to move away from. Please see our section on rolled vs. blown for more info.

Which is better, fiberglass or cellulose?

Both insulation materials have their application but for attic or wall insulation, the cellulose has several many key advantages. Cellulose is more effective, more efficient, longer-lasting and safer. Fiberglass has a hazard-warning label, tends to be itchy, does not have a lifetime guarantee and requires thicker amounts to work as effectively. Please see our section on Cellulose vs. Fiberglass for more info.

How do you deal with Recessed Lighting or other ceiling fixtures?

There are different kinds of fixtures, some are IC-rated (intended to be In-Contact with insulation) while other fixtures are Non IC-rated (insulation must be kept clear of these fixtures). In all cases we evaluate each fixture and apply insulation in a proper and safe manner to ensure no problems will arise. With Non IC-rated fixtures we’ll pull the insulation away and form a barrier around the fixture.

How do you deal with eave vents and other ventilation around the attic?

We ensure that all ventilation is maintained in an open manner to allow air to ventilate. When we’re done, we’ll inspect to make certain all the eave vents, exhaust flues, gable vents and other ventilation are adequately clear.

What forms of payment do you accept?

Cash, check and all major credit cars (Visa, Mastercard, Discover and American Express). We can also accept Paypal and financing is available as well.

Do you offer any senior, military or disabled discounts?

Not really. To be quite open about it, we consider ourselves a wholesale-direct installer, we don’t rely on salesman to close expensive deals nor do we pad our pricing to then allow for discounts or special promotions. We try to keep our pricing cut right to the bone and in many cases homeowners have discovered that we can insulate your home for less then do-it-yourself.

Do you have any unhappy customers?

YES, many customers are quite upset that they didn’t insulate their homes sooner so that they could have enjoyed a more comfortable home with lower energy bills. While this may sound like a joke, you’d be surprised how many sellers are having their home insulated during escrow and then realize how many years they spent paying high energy bills and enduring an uncomfortable home.

Why is Everguard pricing so much lower than what my contractor quoted me?

Our pricing is wholesale direct. Most contractors will mark-up our pricing to cover overhead and profit. There are only a few insulation companies that specialize in our service so many contractors subcontract us and charge you extra.

What about air-sealing?

Air sealing is a new trend on the sales horizon and many companies are jumping onboard to bring you a more “complete” job. Air sealing may have it’s place when using rolled-in fiberglass (for it’s lack of solid coverage) but with cellulose the dense nature of the material combined with it’s monolithic application essentially inhibits air flow to the point where air sealing really isn’t necessary or even beneficial. Let’s also not forget that inside the home are living creatures and some air exchange is necessary, we can’t live in a hermetically sealed environment.

What about Radiant Barrier?

Radiant Barrier has been a fad that has come in and out over the decades, today we’re seeing more companies promoting this concept. While it’s supposed to reflect and refract heat energy, radiant barrier is little more then another layer of insulation. Your best bet is to simply have thick, proper and solid insulation installed directly on the floor of the attic and then ventilate the roof to allow the hot air to escape.

Do I need to remove my existing attic insulation?

Generally, no. We can usually use the existing attic insulation as a base and simply install additional insulation over the existing insulation in order to bring the attic up to an R30 or R38 performance level. Today we’re seeing a trend where many insulation companies are trying to suggest that the only way to “do the job right” is to remove the old attic insulation. Unless you have water damage, fire damage or extreme rodent infestation there is usually no benefit or legitimate reason to remove or vacuum out the old insulation. For more information see our section on insulation removal.